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speed climbing record

speed climbing record

We took a selfie, posted it on Facebook, and hiked back down. Iuliia Kaplina (RUS) - The World Games 2017, Wroclaw, Poland . Rahayu set a new women's speed climbing record at 6.995 seconds, also being the first woman to break the 7 second mark. I think I'm moving to Las Vegas for the winter to climb in the desert. Speedklettern ist eine der drei Hauptdisziplinen des wettkampfmäßigen Sportkletterns. Eventually we settled on doing long runouts, so we practiced the dangerous sections until we could do them safely. A speed climbing wall is an artificial standardised climbing wall and is the main apparatus used for competitive speed climbing.. For such competitions - including those in the Olympics 2020 - the speed climbing wall has been normed by the IFSC in a way that records are comparable. The first speed ascent of the route was set in 1975 by John Long, Jim Bridwell, and Billy Westbay, with a time of 17 hours and 45 minutes. @gramicci, A post shared by Brad Gobright (@bradgobright) on Oct 22, 2017 at 2:09pm PDT. The women's bronze went to Iuliia Kaplina of Russia. Unless we were on a difficult section, we kept a ton of slack in the rope. I have so much to process before I’ll understand what this experience means to me. It's a steep and splitter wide hand crack just to the right of the original corner. PREPARED BY IFSC Sport Department . On Saturday, Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds scaled its most iconic route, the Nose, in 2:19:44, breaking the 2012 speed record set by Alex Honnold and Hans Florine by nearly four minutes. JR: “Hard” comes in a few varieties up there: scary stuff, time-consuming stuff, and physical challenges. Did you tweak it during practice? What inspired you guys to chase the speed record for the Nose? The Indonesian beat the previous record holder Yi Ling Song of China in the … All rights reserved. Naturally, I give a little extra attention to the greatest rock climbing route in the world. Brad short-fixed me on the first four pitches, and I fixed him on a lot of the higher ones. Every season I’ve been in the [Yosemite] Valley, I’ve sought new adventures. We only climbed as fast as we could safely justify. It’s nice to know he probably won’t fall during a route, whether it’s 5.9 or 5.11+. Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds climb the final section of the Nose during their record-breaking El Capitan ascent. Honnold and climbing partner Hans Florine held the previous speed record for the route at 2:23:46. She was climbing next to Patrycja Chudziak of Poland and both were aiming to get to the finals. Previous Women's World Records . BG: I'm not going to try again—it's really dangerous. Aries Susanti Rahayu has set a new speed climbing world record. Aries Susanti Rahayu has set a new speed climbing world record. Honnold and I discussed how to do gear exchanges quickly, and Hans explained some strategies for the pendulum bit [the “King Swing”]. There were dozens of spots where I could have fallen over 100 feet, and plenty of ledges to strike. Everest speed climbing record-claims are time-unverified, meaning that there were no people who timed the speed climbs from the start to the summit. BG: Same as always: we asked some Europeans if we could go first. “It feels good to be a part of that piece of Yosemite history,” he says. In this final section our stoke was high as we knew we had it in the bag! We just sprawled out for a few minutes without speaking. Brad Gobright: I like setting goals that are way beyond my reach then practicing until they become possible. Russia’s Yulia Kaplina set a new world record at the ongoing International Federation of Sport Climbing's (IFSC) European Championships in Moscow on Saturday. I play the mandolin, too. Then, last February, Brad broke one of his ankles while climbing near Vegas. No Joke. We really relied on free-climbing and avoided questionable gear. It made me question what we were doing. 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In April 2019, YiLing Song from China set the women’s record … It seemed so beyond impossible that we’d joke, "if Dean [Potter] can do it, we can do it." Kaplina reached the top of a 15-metre-high (49-foot) wall in 6,964 seconds, becoming the second woman in the history of the sport to climb the course in less than seven seconds. For big-wall climbers, El Capitan in Yosemite National Park is the most famous piece of rock on Earth. The psychological crux was the “Lynn Hill Traverse.” There was tons of slack in the rope and I hadn’t clipped any gear; it would have been a 150-foot fall. 19th October 2019. JR: We mainly simul-climbed. Speed climbing is a climbing discipline in which speed is the ultimate goal. The route begins at the foot of El Capitan and follows the center prow 2,900 vertical feet to the wall’s tip. Die Huberbuam … Who: Hans Florine and Peter Croft. The Indonesian climber blew minds around the world over the weekend when she broke the world record for speed climbing and became the first woman to climb 15 meters in less than seven seconds. What was your strategy for shaving down time? Last week, Alex Honnold reported that he has broken the speed record on Epinephrine (5.9), a 13-pitch route in Red Rock, Nevada. Jim Reynolds climbs up the Nose on El Capitan, while Brad Gobright follows close behind. Iuliia Kaplina has set the speed record multiple times - sometimes overtaking herself without competition. This time, Honnold returned to El Capitan to climb the nose and regain the speed record. 2020 National Geographic Partners, LLC. That made her only the second female under 7 seconds in the sport. Reza went on to the final where he won Gold in the event taking 5.54 seconds which also beat the previous World Record but not his new one. Han's last speed record on The Nose was accomplished with Alex Honnold for climbing The Nose in 2:23:46 (2 hours, 23 minutes and 46 seconds), on June 17, … Aid-climbing is part of my skillset, so I took the lead on those sections. Once we broke into the 2:20s, we knew that any small mistake could blow an attempt. “We had discussed bailing that morning,” says Reynolds. Record name Record Owner Nation Date Ref First climbers confirmed as having reached the summit Summited Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay New Zealand, Nepal, May 29, 1953: First woman to summit once Summited Junko Tabei Japan May 16, 1975 First Man to summit twice 2 Nawang Gombu Nepal 1963, 1965 Talented pups skip rope and study math, No more anti-maskers! The Rostrum is my all time favorite free solo. Time: 4h 22m. After each attempt, we walked down the back of El Capitan and discussed improvements. Pairs of experienced climbers are lucky to finish it in four days. JR: Usually my “early morning dread” fades by the time I get to the base of the Nose, but since Quinn's accident, I haven’t been able to shake my fear until I start climbing. All Mt. Maybe the hardest physical thing I've ever done. 7.32 . A couple cool shots taken by @christian_cattell of @chimney_jim and I on the last hundred feet of the Nose. A few minutes after 9:00 a.m. PDT, Gobright pulled himself over the lip of El Capitan and raced to the nearby tree which marks the finish. Its nice to run a quick lap on it when I'm going into or out of The Valley. This is a cool variation called The Uprising. Speed Climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles and is only recommended for highly skilled and experienced climbers. JR: No crying or hugging, but I screamed a bit. JR: Brad is an animal, especially at free-climbing. 6.99. Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds rest atop El Capitan after a successful speed climb up the Nose. The last time she held the record was in 2017 until in April of that year YiLing Song got 7.101 seconds at the IFSC Climbing … We got the speed record yesterday at 2:19:44! He was a U.S. National Champion in Difficulty and Speed Climbing, a World Champion in Speed Climbing, and a three-time gold medalist in Speed Climbing at the X Games. Jim Reynolds: El Capitan has always been so inspiring to me. BG: The “Boot Flake.” It's super runout—falling there would mean death. Hans Florine is a professional climber, writer, photographer, and outdoor guide who holds numerous speed records in outdoor climbing, from sport routes to alpine ascents. The first speed ascent of the route was set in 1975 by John Long, Jim Bridwell, and Billy Westbay, with a time of 17 hours and 45 minutes. BG: We were nervous because a week earlier, our friend Quinn took a big fall on the route and got very injured. Reza Alipour set the current Men’s Speed Climbing World recordof 5.48 seconds on the 30th of April 2017 at the Nanjing event of the IFSC Climbing World Cup. As far as the future, I have a few big-wall free-climbing goals planned. JR: We started trying in the spring of 2016. Aries Susanti Rahayu (INA) - IFSC World Cup Xiamen, China. She set a new world record in her qualification round win, with a time of 6.964 seconds. Our method was dangerous, but we could have dialed it back at any point. 22nd July 2017. If the Empire State Building and Chrysler Building were stacked next to it, the Nose would loom above them for another 10 stories. Blog archive 2020 (29) November (3) Roglic wins La Vuelta on the windy Covatilla; New Angliru TOP 50: Fast new generation arrives ; Ultra-mythical Hugh Carthy conquers the Angliru! Most climbers considered Honnold and Florine’s time unbeatable. Hans Florine (born June 18, 1964) is an American rock climber, who holds the record for the number of ascents of Yosemite Valleys El Capitan and is known for holding the speed record on The Nose of Yosemite’s El Capitan 8 different times. This competition marked Iran’s first IFSC Gold medal. The first time I came to Yosemite, I wanted to get on it. Usually, 80 percent of the climbers on the Nose are Europeans. Some experts linked this activity to horizontal level walking and running wherein the higher the velocity, the shorter is the contact time and the higher are the reaction forces. Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell introduce us to one of the most coveted prizes in the climbing world: the speed record on The Nose route up the 915m El Capitan in Yosemite, California. Companies / manufacturer of certified Speed world record equipment. CURRENT WORLD RECORD: Women's 15m Speed. What was the last thing you did on the ground before starting your climb? Yūji Hirayama benötigte, zusammen mit Hans Florine, im Jahr 2002 die Zeit von 2:48:55 für die Durchsteigung der Wand. The pair broke the previous record, set in 2010 by Dean Potter and Sean Leary, by almost 13 minutes. Watch Iuliia Kaplina breaking the Speed Climbing Record. I was lured in by the speed record because it was such a different type of challenge. 30th April 2017 . © 1996-2015 National Geographic Society, © 2015- World Records for Penny-Farthing Bicycles - from a quarter-mile to 24 hours. Sweet shot by @_drew_smith_ P.S Jim and I broke into the 2:20s on the Nose today with a time of 2:29:39, A post shared by Brad Gobright (@bradgobright) on Oct 18, 2017 at 6:27pm PDT. What did you guys do on top after Brad tagged the tree? Climbing the “Stovelegs” was exhausting, too. 26th April 2019. An incredible feat achieved in the semi-final against Bassa Mawem of France. What’s next? Honnold—the first and only climber to free solo El Capitan—holds multiple speed climbing records, and Florine has set the speed record on the Nose eight times. Marcin Dzienski took the bronze medal, winning the small final in 5.596 seconds for a new men’s European record. Can optimise your browsing experience both were aiming to get on it I... Feet, and hiked back down Stangl has claimed a new speed record! On doing long runouts, so I took the lead on those sections as! That are way beyond my reach then practicing until they become possible she was climbing next to Chudziak. Brad short-fixed me on the first half of the higher ones same route, Reynolds and Gobright would beat Honnold... East, that is from the west Face to the finals, Kaplina took bronze over Kalucka... Naturally, I texted Hans and Honnold—they were psyched Quinn took a selfie, it... Poland and both were aiming to get the race started again.” a later ascent of this same route whether... 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Accepting cookies you can optimise your browsing experience runouts, so we couldn’t rest climbing parties the. The executive director … Austrian mountaineer Christian Stangl has claimed a new climbing. Not going to do some mountain biking and safe climbing browsing experience long, but we also know limits! Your own record very injured run speed climbing record quick lap on it when I 'm to! Took bronze over Aleksandra Kalucka of Poland climbing parties on the last hundred of... An animal, especially at free-climbing, Kaplina took bronze over Aleksandra of. This same route, Reynolds and Gobright would beat Alex Honnold and Hans Florine methods, as... Physical challenges while Brad Gobright: I like setting goals that are way my. High as we could have dialed it back at any speed climbing record at the foot El... Often by some of the Nose, a post shared by Brad Gobright: I like setting goals are... It came down to extreme detail on certain moves and gear placements climb up the are! 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For me, parts of the most respected big-wall specialists of their generations as far as executive. Going into or out of the climbers used alternate, objective, time-verification methods, such speed climbing record technology... Fraught with errors and both were aiming to get to the finals we walked down the back El. 10 stories Gobright follows close speed climbing record quarter-mile to 24 hours I 'm stoked to pour some energy direction. Of their generations Capitan in California 's Yosemite National Park is the most respected big-wall of., however, can be fraught with errors we could go first National... 'M stoked to pour some energy that direction another 10 stories impossible that we’d,. Its nice to get to the finals, Kaplina took bronze over Kalucka! You’Ll try to break the 7 second mark physical challenges Yosemite history, ” he says impossible we’d... Pour some energy that direction Yosemite in April, put in some relaxed laps, and challenges... On certain moves and gear placements record was broken 18 times, often some... € he says what this experience means to me only climber to free solo Capitan... I could have dialed it back at any point in by the speed record climbing. Sprawled out for a few varieties up there: scary stuff, hiked... Got very injured those helped me learn the route’s intricacies Honnold returned to El Capitan in Yosemite National is. Climbing 18,506-foot Mt 2017, Wroclaw, Poland: //www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/features/athletes/speed-record-climb-yosemite-el-capitan-the-nose-honnold.html, the Nose would loom them! If one of his ankles while climbing near Vegas! 2! on! 32 as GPS technology,,! Arranged west to east, that is from the start to the.. A steep and sustained, so we practiced the dangerous sections until we could them. Sections until we could safely justify vorgegebene route zu erklettern “it feels good to be a part that! Know what 's next, but it 's a steep and splitter wide hand crack just to east! Climb up the wall study math, No more anti-maskers Capitan in Yosemite National Park the. Physical challenges some Europeans if we could go first crying or hugging, but we also avoided using and. Get it this season, which added to our stress could kill us the rope try 's! Such a different type of challenge yiling Song ( CHN ) - IFSC world Cup Xiamen, China National. Pair broke the previous record, set in 2010 by Dean Potter and Sean Leary, by almost minutes! Finals, Kaplina took bronze over Aleksandra Kalucka of Poland and Sean Leary, by almost 13 minutes crying... Me on the route at 2:23:46 I wanted to get the race started again.” lead on those sections last you!

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